Fleece, Jersey, Rib and Mesh: Knit Fabric Constructions Explained
Short answer: construction is how the loops are formed — jersey, rib, interlock, mesh, fleece or jacquard. It governs stretch, recovery, drape and warmth more directly than fibre content does. A 180 GSM jersey and a 180 GSM rib are not interchangeable, even with identical yarn.
Sourcing conversations often start with fibre (“we want cotton” or “we need polyester”). That is only half the decision. The same 95% polyester / 5% elastane yarn can become a smooth single jersey, a breathable birdseye, a compact interlock or a brushed fleece — four fabrics with four different jobs.
The main knit constructions, in plain English
| Construction | Structure & behaviour | Typical GSM | In our range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single jersey | One set of needles, smooth face, distinct back, curls at cut edges | 120–200 | Sorona Single Jersey 165, Cotton Base-Layer Jersey 120 |
| Double-face / interlock | Two needle beds, stable on both faces, little edge curl, often replaces a lining | 200–320 | Acetate-Touch Double-Face 220, TR Air Layer 320 |
| Rib | Alternating knit and purl wales, high widthways stretch and recovery, used for cuffs and trims | 180–250 | Cotton-Like Cuff Rib 187 |
| Mesh / birdseye / eyelet | Open loops or tuck stitches create ventilation channels | 150–180 | Butterfly Mesh 160, Sorona Eyelet Mesh 170 |
| Jacquard | Pattern formed by selecting individual needles, not printed on afterwards | 130–250 | High-Stretch Jacquard 160, TR Eyelet Jacquard 250 |
| Fleece / brushed | Loops raised by brushing to trap air; single-sided or double-sided | 220–320 | Single-Sided Plush Fleece 300, Double-Sided Fleece 280 |
Names that describe a hand feel, not a fibre
Market names are shorthand for how a fabric feels, and they are not composition. This matters when you write a spec sheet or a customs description:
- “Wool-touch” and “Australia wool” on our fleece pages describe a wool-like handle. Those qualities are polyester, not wool — the composition line is the one to quote.
- “Cotton-like” describes a matte, dry hand on polyester/elastane constructions. It does not mean cotton is present.
- “Deyong / 德绒” is a Chinese market term for warm brushed knitwear fabric, not a fibre. Our double-sided brushed qualities are polyester or polyester/elastane.
- “Cationic” polyester is modified to take dye differently, which allows two-tone and heather effects in one dye bath. It is still polyester.
- “Acetate-touch” describes the dry, silk-like surface of a polyester/viscose double-face; no acetate fibre is used.
We state the composition explicitly on every product page for exactly this reason. If a buyer asks about a name, answer with the composition line.
Knitted vs woven — a quick boundary
Nearly all of our range is circular-knitted: loops of yarn, stretch, and a cuttable width that relaxes after finishing. Two qualities — a rayon jacquard and a cotton yarn-dyed check — are woven, with warp and weft, minimal stretch and very different pattern and shrinkage behaviour. A woven specification should ask about creasing, wet strength and abrasion; a knitted one should ask about stretch recovery, pilling and edge curl. Our fabric catalogue labels the construction on each page.
Frequently asked questions
Which knit construction is best for sportswear?
For ventilation, mesh, birdseye or eyelet constructions in 150–180 GSM. For compression and recovery, a polyester/elastane single jersey or interlock with 5–13% elastane. The choice depends on whether breathability or hold is the priority.
Is a higher GSM always warmer?
Not necessarily. Warmth comes from trapped air, so a brushed 220 GSM fleece can feel warmer than an unbrushed 300 GSM dense interlock. Loft and finishing matter as much as weight.
Can a printed fabric also be a jacquard?
Yes, but they are different processes: jacquard builds the pattern into the loop structure while knitting, printing lays colour on the surface afterwards. A printed design will look noticeably lighter on the reverse, which matters if both faces are visible.
What is the minimum order for a custom construction?
Our standard MOQ is 300 kg per quality and colour, and the sample room develops new constructions from a swatch, a garment photo or a specification sheet. Send your specification to discuss what is feasible.
Not sure which construction suits your garment? Tell us the end use and target GSM and we will shortlist qualities from the full range.